Red Eye

Our adventure began at Houston Intercontinental. In spite of short layovers, we met each other at the gate just in time for our red eye to Rio de Janeiro. We celebrated my 29th birthday mid-air.

We landed at Galeão International Airport to find that we’d shed our frigid Midwestern winter for a bit of borrowed summer in the southern hemisphere.

Brazilian Bohemia

A cab dropped us off outside of our airbnb, an aging mansion in the Santa Teresa neighborhood. Nestled in the hills of central Rio, Santa is known for its bohemian allure.

We left our luggage with our hosts and set out to explore the colorful murals and colonial-era homes. We paused for suco at a nearby café and watched as cariocas from all walks of life went about their days.

Enchanting Panorama

With its private jacuzzi and panoramic views of Rio de Janeiro, our airbnb was the perfect birthday surprise. The bed was decorated with a personalized Happy Birthday sign (thoughtfully in English but whimsically backwards) and a dozen scattered truffles. The sun-bathed balcony was the perfect place to shake off our lingering jet lag.

Beach Shrimp

We wasted no time getting to Rio’s famed Copacabana Beach. Though the sand was crowded with speedos and string bikinis, we rented a couple of chairs and carved out a spot of our own.

After a quick dip in the cold saltwater, we took a chance on three skewers of beach shrimp drenched in lime juice, garlic and hot sauce. Absolutely zero regrets.

Al Fresco

For my birthday, we dined on the small balcony of Espírito Santa, an Amazonian restaurant in the hills of Santa Teresa. We went traditional –fruity caipirinhas and shellfish-stuffed Pirarucu filet.

Afterward we soaked in the jacuzzi and breathed in the wonder of Rio at dusk. All together, it was a very full day.

Sunbathed Ceramics

After a traditional Brazilian breakfast at our airbnb, we zipped over to the brilliant Escadaria Selarón. Dodging other tourists, we ascended the mosaicked stairs, all the while admiring the work of Chilean artist Jorge Selarón. We didn’t leave without a trinket, our picture on a tile of our own.

Second-best Pão

Next stop on our tourist to-dos was the Pão de Açúcar. We ascended the sugar loaf-shaped mountain via cable car, ogling as the entire city of Rio de Janeiro unfolded beneath us. We were rewarded with views of Copacabana Beach and Christ the Redeemer, as well as a short break for espresso and pão de queijo.

Looking down from the mountain’s peak, it became clear that Rio was the perfect response to every travelers beach versus mountain dilemma.

Oceanside Daydream

With the afternoon sun still going strong, we headed to upscale Leblon Beach. It was quiet compared to Copacabana, and we enjoyed an afternoon nap while listening to waves crash against the shore.

Our second night’s accommodations were only two blocks away. In contrast with Santa’s bohemian vibe, the high rises of Leblon revealed Rio’s modern side.

Sax & Cocktails

We lingered too long at Leblon Beach and had to rush to our cooking class. Luckily, we were right on time by Brazilian standards. We were serenaded with live saxophone while we learned to make our own caipirinha cocktails and moqueca stew.

Summer Rainstorm

On our last day in Rio, we opted for breakfast on the beach. Juggling açaís and espressos, we strolled two blocks to the ocean to make the most of the morning before our bus ride to Paraty. It poured rain as we left Rio, but the sky cleared up in time for us to enjoy the verdant coastal scenery.

First Stop: Seafood

It was dark when we arrived in Paraty and the cobblestone streets were slick from the afternoon rain. We made our way through the crowded Old Town in search for dinner, and were not disappointed by our plate of freshly grilled fish, squid and shrimp.

Preserved Portugal

We woke up early the next day. Though cloudy, Paraty’s centuries-old architecture was breathtaking against a backdrop of jungle-covered mountains and an island-studded bay.

Aboard the Mar Tropical

Splurging on a private boat tour was one of our best decisions. We followed our captain to the bay, where we found our white and blue vessel, El Mar Tropical. We enjoyed the top deck all to ourselves as our captain sped off and the colonial town disappeared behind us.

Island Hopping

Our tour took us from island to island, stopping for swimming and snorkeling in the temperate seawater. Dozens of tropical fish greeted us to nibble on bananas. In between our stops, we enjoyed the warm breeze and gawked at the private islands in the bay.

Colonial Remnants

Before heading back into town, we detoured to see the Forte Defensor Perpetuo, originally intended to protect the port from pirates, and its bamboo-obscured views of the bay.

After showering poolside at our guesthouse, we waited out a rainstorm and then set out to spend our final hours wandering the historic streets of Paraty. Founded in 1597, the town was exquisitely preserved with brilliant white buildings framed with pops of color.

Sunday in São Paulo

We boarded our bus in Paraty around midnight and arrived in São Paulo before 5 the next morning. The trip was surprisingly comfortable, particularly because we managed to get the last two seats next to each other.

After a much-needed nap, we made our way downtown for lunch with Veronica and Cláudio, a stroll on Minhocão highway, and a spontaneous (and free) trip to the São Paulo Museum of Modern Art.